What to Plant and When
Let's be honest. You didn't forget to plant your tomatoes because you don't care. You forgot because between the kids, the job, the dog, and the seventeen other things on your plate, "check the frost date" doesn't exactly make the top ten. But here's the thing — planting at the right time is the difference between a thriving garden and a sad little cemetery of good intentions.
So let's fix that. This guide covers the Missouri-to-Texas corridor, which means we're working with everything from Missouri's Zone 6 (hello, late frosts) down through Oklahoma's Zone 7 and into Texas's Zones 8 and 9 (where "frost" is more of a rumor). I'll walk you through what to plant, when to plant it, and where in this stretch of the country those rules apply — so you can actually use this information instead of just bookmarking it and feeling productive.
First: Know Your Zone
Before anything else, look up your USDA Hardiness Zone. It takes about 30 seconds, and it will save you a lot of heartbreak. Generally speaking:
Missouri: Zones 5b–7a (north to south)
Arkansas & Oklahoma: Zones 6b–8a
North Texas: Zones 7b–8a
Central & South Texas: Zones 8b–9b
The further south you are, the earlier you can plant in spring and the longer your fall season stretches. The further north, the more patience you need. (Missouri gardeners, I see you. Hang in there.)
Late Spring (May): Go Time
If you're in Missouri, late May is finally, finally full planting season. If you're in Texas, you're already harvesting some of your cool-weather crops and making way for heat-lovers.
Plant in May (all zones):
Sweet corn (direct sow — it doesn't transplant well, so don't try)
Green beans and pole beans (direct sow after soil is warm)
Melons: cantaloupe, watermelon, honeydew
Okra (especially if you're in Arkansas, Oklahoma, or Texas — this plant was made for your summers)
Basil (wait until nighttime temps are consistently above 50°F or it will just sit there and sulk)
Sweet potatoes (transplant slips after soil is warm)
Fruit to plant in late spring: Blueberry bushes establish well in late spring if you're in zones 6–8. Make sure you're getting varieties suited to your zone — "Rabbiteye" blueberries do well in the south, while "Northern Highbush" is better for Missouri.
Summer (June–August): Survival Mode
Here's the truth: summer gardening in this region, especially in Oklahoma and Texas, is mostly about keeping what you've got alive. July in Texas can hit 105°F, and even the plants look tired. This is not the time to start most new vegetables.
What can handle summer:
Okra (absolutely thrives — plant more, you'll thank yourself)
Sweet potatoes (they love heat)
Southern peas (black-eyed peas, crowder peas — these were bred for exactly this)
Peppers (they'll pause flowering in extreme heat but will come back when it cools)
Herbs: rosemary, thyme, oregano (they're basically indestructible)
Missouri gardeners: Your summers are hot but more forgiving than Texas. You can often carry your tomatoes and cucumbers straight through if you water consistently. Consider succession planting beans every 3 weeks through July for a continuous harvest.
Start seeds indoors in mid-to-late July (all zones): This is your secret weapon — start broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and kale transplants indoors now so they're ready to go in the ground for your fall garden.
Fall (September–November): The Second Chance
Fall gardening is criminally underrated, and if you're not doing it, you're leaving a whole extra season of vegetables on the table. The temperatures drop, the bugs thin out, and cool-weather crops taste better in fall than in spring because the light frosts actually convert their starches to sugar. Yes, really.
Plant in early fall (6–8 weeks before first frost):
Broccoli and cauliflower transplants
Cabbage and Brussels sprouts
Kale (it will survive light frosts and keep producing)
Lettuce, spinach, arugula
Radishes and turnips (fast-maturing, great for filling in gaps)
Garlic (plant cloves in October–November for a summer harvest next year — this is the move)
Fall fruit planting:
Plant fruit trees (apple, pear, peach) in fall across all zones. The cooler temps let roots establish without the stress of summer heat. Missouri and Arkansas have great luck with apple trees; Texas gardeners should look for low-chill varieties.
Plant strawberry plants in October for a spring harvest next year.
First frost dates:
Missouri: mid-October to mid-November
Arkansas/Oklahoma: late October to November
North Texas: mid-November
Central/South Texas: December or later (if at all)
Winter (December–February): No, You're Not Done
If you live in Missouri or northern Arkansas, winter is genuinely your rest season. But even here, it's not a throwaway. This is when you plan, order seeds, and start dreaming. In central Oklahoma and Texas, though, winter is a gardening season.
What to plant in winter (Zones 8–9, central to south Texas):
Cool-weather vegetables: lettuce, spinach, kale, Swiss chard, arugula
Root vegetables: carrots, radishes, beets, turnips
Cruciferous crops: broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts
Herbs: cilantro, parsley
Missouri and northern gardeners: Use this time to start seeds indoors for peppers and onions (late January–February). Peppers take forever to get going — if you don't start them inside 10–12 weeks before your last frost, you'll be buying transplants in May and trying to pretend you planned it that way. (No judgment. I've done it.)
Early Spring (March–April): The Exciting Part That Requires Restraint
This is where everyone gets a little overconfident. It's 65 degrees in March, the sun is out, and you want to put everything in the ground immediately. Don't. One late frost will take out your tomatoes faster than you can say "Are you freaking kidding me!"
Last frost dates to keep in mind:
Missouri (north): around April 15–30
Missouri (south)/Arkansas/Oklahoma: April 1–15
North Texas: mid-March
Central Texas: late February–early March
South Texas: January or earlier
What to plant in early spring (after your last frost, or 2 weeks before for cold-tolerant crops):
Cold-tolerant — can go in the ground 4–6 weeks before last frost:
Peas (they actually prefer cool soil — plant them as soon as the ground is workable)
Lettuce, spinach, kale, Swiss chard
Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower transplants
Onion sets or transplants
Potatoes (plant when soil hits 45°F)
Wait until after last frost:
Tomato transplants (one of the most common mistakes — wait until nighttime temps stay above 50°F)
Pepper transplants
Cucumber seeds or transplants
Squash and zucchini
Fruit to think about in spring:If you're putting in strawberry plants, early spring is ideal across the whole Missouri-to-Texas corridor. They'll establish through spring and reward you in their second year. Patience. It's worth it.
A Few Things That Will Save You
1. Mulch is not optional.In summer, 3–4 inches of mulch around your plants keeps moisture in and soil temperature down. In winter, it protects roots from freeze-thaw cycles. Put it on everything.
2. Water deeply and less frequently. This encourages roots to grow down where moisture is more consistent. Daily shallow watering creates shallow roots and needy plants. Water every 2–3 days, deeply, and you'll have stronger plants.
3. Write it down. Keep a simple garden notebook — even just a notes app on your phone — and write down what you planted and when, what worked, and what was a disaster. You'll be amazed how much you forget between seasons, and this information is gold.
4. Don't skip succession planting. Instead of planting all your lettuce or beans at once, plant a small amount every 2–3 weeks. You'll get a steady harvest instead of a three-week flood and then nothing.
You don't have to have it all figured out to have a garden that works for you. Start with a couple of things this season, pay attention to your zone and your frost dates, and give yourself permission to learn as you grow. The garden will meet you where you are — it just needs you to show up.
